Saturday, December 18, 2010

Hollow Beams

Hollow crossbeams (iako, kiato, aka) are a good way to save weight without losing strength or stiffness.  In the first photo, a 5/8" (16mm) board has been clamped to locater blocks screwed to the workbench.  Spacer blocking is glued to the interior surface at regular intervals and importantly where the beam crosses the gunwales of the canoe.

The top member of the beam is another 5/8" thick board and is glued and clamped to the spacer blocks.

Solid blocking at the ama end of the beam is longer to take an inserted dowel later.

1/4" (6mm) or 3/16" (4mm) plywood is glued and nailed (or stapled) to both sides of the beam.  After the glue under the first layer of  plywood has cured, remove the clamps and put plywood on the other side.  I can't remember how much springback there was, but is was not much.

A hardwood dowel (old shovel handle) is glued into the end of the beam for a Wa'apa style connection.  The end of the beam will later be finished with several wraps of fiberglass to prevent splitting.
These are the beams I've been using for several years on my Wa'apa canoe.

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

Wa'apa missing

Stephen Sleight's 16' Wa'apa has taken from the beach in Maui and he's like to have it back.  Contact me if you have any information.
Meanwhile Stephen has built a smaller 12' version of a Wa'apa or Tamanu out of two sheets of plywood.

Stephen built an 18' T2 several years ago and now needs to sell it.  Contact me if you are interested.